Are mushrooms the future of fashion?

Those of us who live in wealthy, industrialized societies today can afford a wardrobe that would have been the envy of kings and queens of the past.

Fine fabrics and beautiful garments used to be the sole privilege of the aristocracy, because of the immense labor required to spin, dye and weave them. But technology has changed that equation. Clothing is cheaper and more varied than ever, and we're consuming it at an accelerating pace. The average American buys 53 new items of clothing per year, four times more than in the year 2000, and keeps them for only half as long.

All this consumption comes at a high environmental cost.

The fashion industry accounts for 10% of the world’s carbon emissions. That's a shockingly high percentage, more than air travel and maritime shipping combined. In addition, the wasteful tendencies of the industry mean that only 1% of textiles are recycled, while up to 87% are incinerated or go into landfills each year.

Fashion is also a major consumer of plastic. Approximately 60% of clothing materials are derived from synthetic fibres such as polyester, acrylic, and nylon. The production of polyester alone creates two to three times as much carbon pollution as cotton.

As the fast fashion industry keeps growing, this problem will only get worse. The United Nations forecasts that, if the fashion industry continues to grow at its current pace, it could account for one-quarter of the world’s carbon emissions by 2050.

Thinking about the future of fashion means rethinking the current approach of synthetic, plastic-based textiles that are made to be worn a few times and thrown away, then sit in landfills forever. Creating a more sustainable fashion industry depends on finding new materials that are renewable and less carbon-intensive.

To start with, we can look underground.

Pioneering a mushroom alternative to leather

For several years, fashion designers have been experimenting with turning mushroom-based threads into a vegan material similar to leather. Stella McCartney pioneered the use of fungal leather when, in cooperation with the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, her luxury brand launched the world’s first-ever vegan luxury bag, Falabella. The bag was crafted from Mylo, an alternative to animal leather that's made from mycelium—the root-like structure of fungi that grows beneath the soil, breaking down organic matter and providing nutrients to plants and trees. 

To manufacture the bag, mycelial fabric was grown and engineered in a lab powered by 100% renewable energy by biotechnology firm Bolt Threads. Mylo was also used by other luxury brands, including Adidas, Kering and Lululemon. Mylo was discontinued when the company decided to shift their focus to biotech-driven ingredient innovation for the beauty and personal care industry. 

The next step for McCartney was to partner with US-based materials science company Natural Fiber Welding Inc., a nominee for an Earthshot Prize, to develop another plastic-free alternative to leather called MIRUM. 

Why mushrooms, why plants

The magic of mushrooms happens underground. Beneath the soil, a vast network of mycelial threads connects fungi to the roots of trees and other plants, creating a symbiotic relationship of communication and sharing nutrients.

Mycelium has properties that make it useful to humans. It's simultaneously soft, dense, and strong, which makes it a great replacement for leather. Mushroom leather is cruelty-free and biodegradable.

The mycotextile industry is redefining the limits of fashion to bring about a better and more sustainable future for the fashion industry. Mushroom leather and other plant-based alternatives are still a new, experimental technology pushing the limits of design; however, it is a great step forward toward a future of fashion that is more ethical, sustainable, and efficient than the multibillion-dollar animal leather industry.

Today, luxury brands using vegan leather include, among others, Stella McCartney, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Kaila Katherine, and Chloé; and high street brands such as H&M, Zara, and New Look. These brands are experimenting with a wide range of plant-based and innovative materials derived from mushrooms, pineapple, apples, and other sources.

French luxury brand Hermes has manufactured a travel bag made from a vegan, leather-like textile called Sylvania created by California-based startup MycoWorks, derived from threads made of fungal mycelium.

It’s worth noting that not all leather replacements are created equal. While they all seek to appeal to sustainability-minded customers, some are more sustainable than others. Some synthetic materials are produced from plastics, and the processes used to manufacture them create microplastic pollution, some of which also end up in the food chain and then on your plate.

Only leather-like materials made entirely from plants are safe and environmentally friendly. When choosing an alternative leather product, it is paramount to ensure the material is truly plastic-free and not synthetic.

As more and more clothing brands choose to manufacture and sell these alternative fabrics rather than pelts from animals, it’s our decision to support these companies and start switching into only wearing plant-based, biodegradable, and sustainable alternative leather materials. Because, at the end of the day, it's us, consumers, who can make a real difference on how we impact the environment and the climate through our consumer choices.